Jacob Dreyer is an editor and contributing writer for Noema based in Shanghai. Looking in the mirror each morning at my permanently fatigued face, I start my day with a gulp of apple cider vinegar and a vitamin pill. I move on through a box of sardines and a grapefruit, some dense rye bread, some brown yogurt (ryazhenka) and cashew nuts. I think of these things as healthful, in the same realm as t...